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Painting White Scars

Welcome to the latest in the Specialist Brands team?s ongoing hobby challenge. In this article Andy Hoare tells us how he paints his White Scars.

 

Way back when I decided that I?d be collecting White Scars for our team hobby challenge I realised I?d have to master that most dreaded of painting tasks ? large areas of white! Fortunately, help was close at hand in the form of hobby guru Mark Bedford, who shared his own secret recipe with me. I admit I was skeptical at first, but having tried it realised how simple and fun it actually was. Since showing off my first squads I?ve had quite a few people ask me about it, so I thought it would make a good topic for an article.

For this example, I?m painting a White Scars Legion Veteran Tactical Legionary. I?m painting the entire squad, which I?ll show in all its glory in a future article and for it I decided to use as many White Scars upgrade parts as possible, as befits a squad of veteran status. I was inspired somewhat by the new Citadel Deathwatch veterans, as each wields a bolter one-handed while brandishing a power sword in the other. But that?s for a future article, for now, on with the dreaded task of painting white!

Stage 1: Basecoat - The miniature is sprayed Chaos Black, then immediately sprayed Corax White.

Stage 1: Basecoat – The miniature is sprayed Chaos Black, then immediately sprayed Corax White.

Stage 2: White Stage 1 - The miniature is lightly dusted with Corax White from above.

Stage 2: White Stage 1 – The miniature is lightly dusted with Corax White from above.

 

Stage 3: Wash - A wash 25/75% Agax Earthshade/ Lahmian Medium is applied to the white areas.

Stage 3: Wash – A wash 25/75% Agax Earthshade/ Lahmian Medium is applied to the white areas.

Stage 4: White Highlight - Airbrush Citadel White Scar Air, concentrating on the head, shoulders and knees.

Stage 4: White Highlight – Airbrush Citadel White Scar Air, concentrating on the head, shoulders and knees.

 

Stage 5: Chipping - Sparingly apply Skavenblight Dinge to the edges of the armour using a piece of torn foam or sponge.

Stage 5: Chipping – Sparingly apply Skavenblight Dinge to the edges of the armour using a piece of torn foam or sponge.

Stage 6: Metals base - Ironbreaker to sword, bolter etc, and to shoulder pad trims. Retributor Gold to sword hilt etc

Stage 6: Metals base – Ironbreaker to sword, bolter etc, and to shoulder pad trims. Retributor Gold to sword hilt etc

 

Stage 7: Metals wash - Nuln Oil is washed onto metals areas (but not shoulder pad trim). It is also applied to bolter casing, pouches and grenades, making it easier to paint them later. Seraphim Sepia to gold details.

Stage 7: Metals wash – Nuln Oil is washed onto metals areas (but not shoulder pad trim). It is also applied to bolter casing, pouches and grenades, making it easier to paint them later. Seraphim Sepia to gold details.

Stage 8: Layers - Layer Abaddon Black to highlight the boltgun, topknot and grenades. Liberator Gold is layered on to the gold. Ironbreaker Silver is layered on to metallics. Two coats of Angron Red are applied to the shoulder trim and chest armour details. Ammo pouches are painted Rhinox Hide.

Stage 8: Layers – Layer Abaddon Black to highlight the boltgun, topknot and grenades. Liberator Gold is layered on to the gold. Ironbreaker Silver is layered on to metallics. Two coats of Angron Red are applied to the shoulder trim and chest armour details. Ammo pouches are painted Rhinox Hide.

 

Stage 9: Highlights - Eshin Grey and then Stormvermin Fur is applied to highlight black areas. Stormhost Silver is used as a final highlight to gold and silver areas. Doombull Brown highlights are applied to the edges of the pouches.

Stage 9: Highlights – Eshin Grey and then Stormvermin Fur is applied to highlight black areas. Stormhost Silver is used as a final highlight to gold and silver areas. Doombull Brown highlights are applied to the edges of the pouches.

Stage 10: Gloss Varnish and shade - The whole miniature is sprayed gloss varnish. Agax Earthshade is applied to recesses in armour and all over red shoulder trim. The gloss allows the washes to flow into the recesses. Guiliman Blue Glaze is painted into recesses on the sword. Seraphim Sepia is washed into recesses on other metallic areas. Stormhost Silver chips are applied to the edges of the shoulder trim. Nuln Oil in is applied into the visors.

Stage 10: Gloss Varnish and shade – The whole miniature is sprayed gloss varnish. Agax Earthshade is applied to recesses in armour and all over red shoulder trim. The gloss allows the washes to flow into the recesses. Guiliman Blue Glaze is painted into recesses on the sword. Seraphim Sepia is washed into recesses on other metallic areas. Stormhost Silver chips are applied to the edges of the shoulder trim. Nuln Oil in is applied into the visors.

 

Stage 11: Satin varnish - The whole model is sprayed with a purity seal.

Stage 11: Satin varnish – The whole model is sprayed with a purity seal.

Stage 12: Base - The base is painted with PVA glue, onto which sand is sprinkled. This is painted first with a Rhinox Hide basecoat, then drybrushed Steel Legion Drab, Tallarn Sand and then Terminatus Sand.

Stage 12: Base – The base is painted with PVA glue, onto which sand is sprinkled. This is painted first with a Rhinox Hide basecoat, then drybrushed Steel Legion Drab, Tallarn Sand and then Terminatus Sand.

So that?s how I paint white ? this technique has certainly opened up a lot of possibilities for me and I hope its some use to you. Next time I?ll show off the fully-painted Legion Veteran Tactical Squad, and maybe some other miniatures I?ve been working on, so long as I can find that time to finish them off! Having mastered painting white, inventing a time machine should be easy?

 

Posted by Andy

 

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